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I don’t use mousse very often (just a personal preference), but the Activating Mousse from Not Your Mother’s gives my hair amazing hold and shine. To use it, dispense the product into your hand then work the product from roots to ends. You can even stretch this out longer, depending on personal preference. After all, to have textured hair is to know that truly embracing and accepting it can be a journey—and Gentry is honest and open about hers. With over 12 years of experience in the beauty and fashion industry, Ashley Ludgood brings a wealth of expertise to her current role at PATTERN.
Drying + Styling Curly Hair
"For styles that require the maintenance of volume, tie up the hair at night," says Sanders. You can try a hair buff or the pineapple method using a silk scarf, which Sears says is the most common method used by her clients. Essentially, use your conditioning products as directed on the packaging, which typically is on damp hair throughout the mid-lengths and ends of the hair. "You'll know the conditioner is evenly applied with the right amount of water and absorbing into the hair cuticle if the hair feels slimy with the conditioner in it," says Sanders. Knowing your curl type, whether it is from 2a to 4c, can absolutely impact your relationship with your hair, as well as figuring out your hair's porosity, or its ability to absorb and hold moisture.
Scrunch your curls
It creates a gel cast that may seem hard and stiff at first, but will be "broken" later, so don’t fret. Rake the product through and scrunch the ends of your hair up towards the roots. This movement will become your new norm for applying styling products. If I’m styling several times a week, I add a deep conditioning treatment to my routine to add extra moisture and repair heat damage. A thick conditioner or hair mask provides nourishment and deeply penetrates and moisturizes the scalp.
Is the Curly Girl Method good for hair?
Pre-wash treatments like hair masks and oils get to work penetrating the hair shaft while you wash, resulting in superior moisture retention. Then, working through each section one at a time, use a wide-tooth comb or wet brush to gently detangle your curls from ends to roots. These provide hold to your hair, from a light hold to a super strong one, depending on the product you use. Gels can also hold in moisture, enhance and define curls and control frizz. The Eco Styler Professional Styling Gel with Argan Oil is a NC recommended gel that provides a medium hold and will enhance curl definition, plus it’s formulated with Argan oil to add extra shine. During my pre-teen years, my mom would allow me to style my hair on my own, you know, to practice a bit of independence.
Controlled Chaos provides a specially formulated Deep Moisture conditioner. It penetrates deep into the hair shaft, providing intense hydration and nourishment. Oils can enhance your hair’s natural oils and lock in moisture and strengthens your hair strands.
What products are not part of the Curly Girl Method?
There are no hard rules for how often you should use each product. For example, some people wash their hair three times a week, while others wash only once a week. When in doubt, ask a professional for personalized advice targeted to the products you use and the needs of your hair. Finally, I wrap (or plop) my hair into an old t-shirt or terrycloth towel until my hair is no longer soaking wet and get dressed. After about 20 minutes, I’ll let my hair down and allow it to air-dry for a few hours — that’s how I get my springiest, bounciest, shiniest curls ever.
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It's also typical for one to have a combination of different curl patterns at once — be it loose waves, ringlets, or zig-zag curls. One common mistake people make when caring for their curly hair is over-shampooing. Unlike straight hair, curly hair tends to be drier because natural oils have a harder time traveling down the hair shaft due to the twists and turns of the curls. Therefore, it's essential to shampoo your hair sparingly to avoid stripping away these precious oils.
Let that conditioner sit and get to work
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Your patience will pay off in the form of well-defined and frizz-free curls. The secret to keeping frizz at bay involves moisture, moisture, moisture. I wouldn’t be able to properly detangle without a leave-in that provided moisture and enough slip to loosen up any knots. Great for keeping hair hydrated and 100% aloe; it’s the first ingredient.
Once the shampoo is massaged and rinsed out, I apply a generous amount of conditioner to the ends and middle of my hair, as those sections tend to be drier for curly hair. I also use the DevaCurl One Conditioner, perfect for restoring hydration to dry curls. I’ve found that sulfates are often drying and harsh on my curls, so I turned to products such as the DevaCurl No-Poo shampoo, specifically formulated to cleanse without stripping away necessary oils. It’s best to avoid using a hairbrush, as it both brushes through your natural curl pattern, creates frizz, and distributes the natural oil in your hair unevenly. Your hair’s needs are unique to your curl type, so it’s essential to find a shampoo that hydrates & works with your curls. As for my routine, I like to mix air-drying and diffusing, which François also suggests as an alternative to using one method versus the other.
Oh, and I shouldn’t forget to say, finger detangling takes patience (hence my self-pep talk earlier). If you’re rushing and feeling frustrated, you’re going to rip through your knots and tangles the same way a brush or comb might. It’s important to slow down and be gentle with your curls for the best results.
You’re not going to notice dramatic results overnight — although the effects of masks and certain styling products can be noticed instantly, it takes time for your hair to get used to new products. As a child, I always wore my hair in its naturally curly state — 3b/3c curls to be exact. And for the most part, I didn’t think much about my waist-grazing spirals. And TBH, it wasn’t until middle school when that adolescent innocence began to fade and I started to notice my hair was different than most of those around me. And even though most of my peers would swoon over my curls, I began to develop a desire for long, flowing, straight locks. Also, swap out your pillowcase for a satin or silk pillowcase for extra protection.
If I’m being honest, I have a love-hate relationship with my naturally curly hair routine, particularly wash day. It’s one of those days during the week that I try to push off for as long as I can, but if I stuck to a strict schedule with my curly hair routine, it may just be a more enjoyable experience. But before I dive into why I equally look forward to and loathe the days of the week I wash my hair, let me give you a little back story on my never-ending hair journey.
Keep your hands out of your hair to keep the hair frizz-free and smooth. "Our fingers attract the moisture and product from our hair and create frizz," says Sanders. "Flip your hair over and very loosely tie it up high on the head (like the top of a pineapple) with a scrunchie," she says. Protecting your curls while you sleep can help ensure your hard work of caring for and styling your hair doesn't go to waste in one day.
So in most cases, it may take you anywhere between one and four months to commit to the method and find your curly cocktail that works. I let my hair air-dry most days to let my natural curls maintain their shape. But there are days I need to speed things up with a quick dry. I use a lightweight leave-in conditioner to bring out the curls. A good leave-in conditioner will provide extra moisture without weighing down your natural curls. I use the Mielle Pomegranate & Honey Leave in Conditioner, and smooth it through my hair, starting from the ends of my hair and working my way to the roots.